Saturday, May 9, 2015

What Makes a Bespoke Shoe?

There's a good question-what makes a bespoke shoe? Is it the person who measures you*, the person who makes the last*, the person who cuts the pattern, cuts the leather, closes the upper or the bottom maker who puts the soles, heels, stiffeners and toe puffs in to the shoe? The answer to the question is-all of the above.....BUT, with a few of the above can make a very big difference.

The overall shoe can change a lot if we don't follow correct procedures, at The London Shoemaker, the person who measures you ALSO MAKES THE LAST! Why is this important? Well, think about it, that person who measures you also relates those measurements to the shape and form being created for you as a customer, therefore, rather than just write a measure here, draw an arch there, make a mark on the paper somewhere else-who has to decipher all these notes? Answer-THE LAST MAKER! You cannot relate all this information to another person as precise as the person who measures and makes the last, you cannot relate all this information to a company who produces a last to the measurements the person gives them-that is impersonal service, not a personal service. The shoe starts LAST FIRST! If you are not a trained last maker how can you relate the measurements or relevant details to someone else or a company, something will be missed, then they wonder why the shoe doesn't fit correctly!

At The London Shoemaker-we INSIST that our last maker measures you, this ensures that after we have taken the measurements and any appropriate details required in making the shoe fit correctly and any relevant details marked down regarding fit, style, color etc are then used to make the last in house in our work shop. When you next order your bespoke shoes ask if the person measuring you actually MAKES the last and not passes this information to someone else, also make sure they actually MAKE THE LAST and DON"T fit up a stock last. There are last makers and there are last 'Fitters', if you are getting a truly bespoke shoe then make sure the lasts are also made by hand-not a machine and fitted up! There are correct ways of making things and to have the whole process done by hand is what you get when you come to The London Shoemaker.

With all that said, when we make you a bespoke pair of shoes at The London Shoemaker, WE measure you, WE hand carve the last, We use West End of London Closer and Bottom Makers, people we have worked with for over 30 years! Our experience is the best and that is exactly what we offer-a bespoke shoe in the USA that is totally hand made to the same exact standards or better than a shoe made in London.

Come in and visit us and have your next bespoke shoe made by us, by hand, the way it should be made.

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